Look back at pictures of, say young Princess Diana or even Kareena Kapoor Khan in Jab We Met (2007). They’re beautiful, of course. But they look real, human, natural. Now, contrast the images with videos of any skincare influencer online. The skin is poreless. Did she ever have facial hair? She has glass skin, but surely she never sweats. It might seem like Little Miss Selfie was generated by AI.

Front cameras have all given us closer looks at ourselves. We’ve ended up with no tolerance for a breakout, a wrinkle, peach fuzz or closed comedone (and taught us what a closed comedone is – that ghastly under-skin zit that never pops).

The first law of skincare is cleansing. And many dermatologists believe that it’s where most beauty aficionados go overboard and do the worst damage. Complicated 10-step routines are giving way to less stressful cleansing methods. So, who needs what and why? Read on.

Start simple. “Streamline your routine with only the essentials, and pay attention to how your skin reacts to each product you use,” says Dr Dipti Dhillon, chief dermatologist at Delhi’s AppleSkin clinic. For many people, mild soap is enough. Oilier skins might need to cleanse with a light oil and follow up with a face wash. “Cleansers, especially those formulated with harsh ingredients, can strip the skin of its natural oils. This can leave the skin feeling tight, dry, and prone to irritation. Over time, excessive oil removal can trigger the skin to produce even more oil to compensate, leading to a vicious cycle of oiliness,” Dr Dhillon says. Give any skincare a month to settle in and deliver. “Adjust your routine if there is irritation.”

Go easy on the actives. Trendy cleansers come not just with a power ingredient, but advertise their strength too. There’s 2% BHA, or salicylic acid, to keep oily skin congestion free. There are devoted fans of 8% glycolic acid exfoliating toner. Anti-ageing retinoids, once available only under prescription, now come, in diluted forms, in everyday cleansers. Mud masks, designed to pull oil and dirt from deep within the skin, are trending. The worst thing to do, doctors say, is to slather them all at once. It only sloughs away the skin’s own protective barriers, leaving it red, vulnerable to the sun and dirt, and more likely to break out.

Stay in balance. Most of us only have the patience for a single face cleanser. Make sure it has a pH level between 4.5 and 7 for everyday use. Dr Aarushi Mittal, dermatologist at Gauhati Medical College and Hospital, recommends one that is also “free of sulfates, alcohol and fragrances”. Why add to life’s already long list of potential irritants?

Set the routine. By all means, cleanse thoroughly after a jog though the city. Use a make-up remover to take off cosmetics at the end of the day. But cleansing too often causes damage that is hard to undo. “The skin’s barrier, composed of lipids and proteins, plays a crucial role in retaining moisture and protecting against environmental aggressors,” says Dr Mittal. “Overcleansing can compromise this barrier, making the skin more susceptible to moisture loss, inflammation, and sensitivity.” Twice daily – AM and PM – is enough.

At the gym. Cleanse gently after a workout and give skin time to calm down before applying more skincare. “Men’s skin produces more oil, and they have larger pores, more hair follicles and thicker skin than women,” says Dr Dhillon. All of this makes them more prone to acne, clogged pores, and blackheads, to say nothing of grubby surfaces at a public gym. “The longer you leave sweat on your body and face, the higher the chances of infection.”

Change it up. Stress can trigger acne. Pollution can exacerbate dryness. A new sunscreen might be harder to rinse off. Pores might get clogged more in summer than in winter. And in the rains, skin often feels clammy. Keep checking on your skin, don’t rush the hygiene and cleanse with care. Healthy, clean skin makes every subsequent skincare step that much easier.

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